November 10, 2012

Conditioning Your Breeder (Simple Tips)

First - 2 day before spawning your breeder, feed your female 3-4 times a day with mosquito larvae or daphnia. Best result is feed with mosquito larvae. The result is your female breeder will produce more egg.

Second – 2 day before spawning your breeder, feed your male 3-4 times a day with frozen/live tubifex, frozen/live blood worm, or brine shrimp. This will give your male much energy for spawning and 2 days after the fry hatched until they can swim horizontally and avoid male to eat the egg or fry.

Third – conditioning your water in spawning tank with Indian Almond Leaves extract or Ketapang Leaves extract to avoid you lose much fry after hatched. Keep the water temperature 26-30 Celcius degree. Do this in your breeder tank too.

This is what work best for me. If you have another way or tips to conditioning your breeder, you can comment or message me for sharing. Thanks for read this article!

Hope you enjoyed!

November 5, 2012

Colour & Genetic

Colour Layers in Betta :
Iridescent layer (top layer) Iridocytes/guanophores are blue/green cells demonstrating Iridescent colour, Spread iridocytes and Non-blue
Black layer (after iridescent layer) Melanophores are black cells, demonstrating Cambodian, Blonde, Melano
Red layer (after black layer) Erythrophores are red cells, demonstrating Extended Red, Reduced Red, Non Red and Variegated fins
Yellow layer (bottom layer) Xanthophores are the yellow cells demonstrating absences of the other layers

Types of Black


Melano Black is the darkest black pigment with a mutated gene (such as the Extended Red) where the appearance is opaque black. The melano female is infertile, and is often crossed with blue or steel to retain the colour, this increases the presence of iridescences since blue or steel has iridocytes layer (iridescent layer). This gene is recessive to the normal black. 

Black Lace describes a dark fish with clear or cellophane edges, often not dark enough to compete with melano in the black class and will often be shown as a dark bicolour. 

Melano Butterfly is not to be mistaken with Black lace, the body is particulary dark and often shows iridescence, with white or clear variegated fins. The colour behaves as it would normal Melano.

Normal/Marble Black is the result of a marble spawn, this black is dominant over all other blacks, but is not as dark as the melano. This colour is difficult to breed with as with the marble gene the outcomes can be unpredictable










Red & Extended Red
As we know, the 4 colour layers in Betta Splenden are ordered as such : iridescent (blue layer), black, red, and yellow layer. The only colour that can cover red is either iridescent blue or black.

The Extended Red gene demonstrates a thick red colour that often covers the face, eyes, gills, body and fins. In show standards the ideal red should demonstrate no black edges to scales, along with as little iridescence as possible, and he most vivid colour.

The Red layer also demonstrate the following traits :
Extended red
Reduced red
Non-red
Variegated fins 

For the latter point, there are often black lace butterflies that come out of solid red spawns.

Cambodian 

Cambodian are classed as a light bicolour fish, where the separation light body and dark red finnage, there are also other bicolours known as “blue, green or black cambodian”. This colour is where the red gene is demonstrating the Reduced red traits.

Yellow & Orange 
Yellow also known as Non red, the Yellow layer not only demonstrated Non red traits, but Non black and Non blue.
While this is the last layer, it is clear that the vibrancy of colour is not as strong as that of the more surface layers such as red and blue. There are many variations of betta demonstrating the Non red traits (yellow) such as Mustard Gas, Chocolate, Yellow Salamander, Pineapples, Yellow Dragons, Yellow Armadillo, Marbles, Butterflies and Pastels.

Orange is relatively new evolution in betta colour, and as with the yellow, is most desirable with as little black scaling as possible, it is a notoriously difficult colour to breed true, as orange X orange colour washes out rapidly.

Metallic Colour


Hope you enjoyed!

November 4, 2012

Tips For Buying Betta Fish



I would recommended first you buy a betta fish from high quality breeder. They have very high quality fish, more variety colors, healty fish, and you would know your betta genetic they have bring. Second recommended is you buy from web such as Aquabid.com, the have a great or fine quality fish and you can choose much more variety of colors. The last recommended is buy from petsmart or petshop. You must have a great observation and luck to get a good fish when you buying them from petsmart or petshop. Much of that place didn’t have a good care about fish they sell, so I just say “Good Luck” .

Don’t forget to read an article about IBC Standard in this blog if you want to buy betta fish for competition. Just download the PDF files here :

Hope you enjoyed!

Defining A Good Crowntail

Let's start by providing a definition of what a good CT should look like, using the new IBC Crowntail Standards published in the March/April 2004 issue of Flare! magazine as a medium of reference. It should be kept in mind that the standards only apply to male CT bettas; females are judged in the standard color classes for their respective color types.

For the purpose of showing in the CT class, Crowntails are defined as bettas exhibiting at least 33% reduction in webbing versus ray length in each of the three primary fins (caudal, anal and dorsal). This requirement must be demonstrated in all three primary fins but does not need to be exhibited between all rays to meet the minimum requirement to be classified as a Crowntail betta.

Single ray - In the 'SR' CT, web margins are, ideally, uniform and webbing reduction is equal between primary rays and rays with branches.











Cross Ray - The crossing of rays ('CR') is manifested by pairs of ray extensions that curve over each other.













Double Ray - In the 'DR' CT, webbing is reduced at the two levels: one between a pair of rays and the other, more profoundly, between two ray branches. Breeders put a premium on double-ray and 4 ray extension Crowntails. These traits are to be regarded as neutral and are not to be pointed above single ray extended Crowntails. Four ray and even eight ray extensions are less common and the effect is almost always confined to the caudal fin only.






Double Double Ray - 'DDR' is double double ray, hence a four ray extended branching.












Random Ray - The term 'RR' basically means that the caudal spread has mixed single ray, double ray, 3 rays and 4 rays extended branching all mixed up. It is used to describe those whose extended ray patterns are not fixed.

For the purpose of judging CT in IBC sanctioned showing, these are the desired traits judges are encouraged to look for :
  1. 33% reduction in webbing material for each primary fin is minimum. 50% reduction in webbing material in all three primary fins is ideal.
  2. Ray extensions to be uniform in balance, length and spacing (symmetrical).
  3. Double and 4 ray extensions in dorsal and anal fins to match caudal extensions.
Undesirable traits for Crowntails:
  1. Less than 33% reduction in webbing material in 2 or all 3 primary fins is a DISQUALIFYING FAULT.
  2. Less than 33% reduction in webbing material in 1 primary fin is a SEVERE fault.
  3. Ray extensions of different lengths are MINOR faults unless the rays are in even, repeating pattern.
  4. Random rays, for example, single protruding rays in a double ray or 4 ray Crowntail, should not be regarded more than a MINOR fault and ignored if there is only a single ray protruding ray.
  5. Curled or bent ray extensions are each a MINOR fault.
  6. Non-symmetrical spaces between ray extensions are each a MINOR fault.

Source : BettySplendens.com

Hope you enjoyed!

November 3, 2012

Betta Fish Food (Nutritional Content)

Mosquito larvae

Protein                 15.58%
Dry protein         48.96%
Moisture             68.18%
Fat                          7.81%
Fiber                      3.46%
Ash                        1.4%












Blood worms
Protein                 10.5%
Dry protein         69%
Moisture             84.8%
Fat                          2%
Ash                        7%









Tubifex worms (Silk worms)
Protein                 48%
Moisture             (unknown)
Fat                          21%
Glicogen              7%
Organic acid        1%
Nucleid acid        1%








Daphnia
Protein                 5%
Dry protein         45.45%
Moisture             89%
Fat                          5%
Ash                        9%









Artemia (Brine shrimp)
Protein                 9%
Dry protein         75%
Moisture             88%
Fat                          2.5%
Fiber                      3%
Ash                        6%








Maybe this can help you choose best living food for your betta fish. Don't forget feed your betta fish with variety of food (live or dry food).

Hope you enjoyed!